North Face Mount Kenya Climb

The North Face’s regular path begins at Kami Hut, located at an altitude of 4300 meters, just past Shipton’s Camp. Unlike the SE Face Route, this one is best trekked in June, July, August, September and October. In order to reach the summit, a timeframe of 7 to 8 days is necessary. Along the North Face route, an overnight stay at Firmin Tower is required, with the option of setting up a tent or bivouac. Crampons are essential for those wishing to traverse the Gate Of Mist to Nelion.

The North Face route commences from either Shipton’s Camp or Kami Hut at 0330 hours. It takes approximately 2 hours to hike to the base of the climbing, with the initial part being Grade IV+. The first two pitches involve easy scrambling, followed by Grade III, Grade II, and Grade IV to reach the amphitheatre. From there, it is a straightforward walk to the base of Firmin Tower. At this point, two routes are available; one involves a tricky Grade V climb up the Tower in a small gully, while the other route is longer but easier and goes around the tower.

Subsequent to this, you’ll arrive at the knife edge, where you’ll encounter a Grade IV+ pitch, followed by another Grade IV section before reaching a traverse that ultimately leads to Shipton’s notch. The rocks in this area are notably unstable and require cautious handling. Once past Shipton’s notch, you will finally reach Batian at an elevation of 5,199 meters.

Once you reach the summit, you will descend by abseiling and navigating a significant amount of downward climbing. Consisting of 23 pitches, this is the most lengthy climb. The optimal time to tackle this route is between June and early October.

Day 1

Nairobi – Old Moses Camp 3300 m (10,890 ft.)

Departing Nairobi at 8:00 am, the journey to Nanyuki typically spans 4 hours. From there, continue on to Mt Kenya National Park Sirimon gate. Following a leisurely picnic lunch, the track winds uphill for 10 kilometers. At the junction, veer left to arrive at Old Moses camp, boasting an elevation of 3,300 meters. Ascending from Sirimon gate to Old Moses covers a distance of 690 meters.

Day 2

Shipton’s Camp 4236 m (13,898 ft.)

Throughout the day, we will journey on foot through the Liki Valley, passing through Mackinder Valley until we reach Shipton’s Camp, a trek that will take approximately 7-8 hours. Lunch will be provided along the way. Once at Shipton’s Camp, you will be treated to magnificent panoramic views of the north faces of Nelion and Batian peaks. After a well-deserved dinner, you will spend the night camping at this location.

Day 3

Peak Circuit for Acclimatization Shipton’s Camp

Following breakfast, we begin our ascent along the peak circuit to aid in acclimatization. The route takes us up a steep ridge, passing through Kami Hut, Hausberg Col, and Two Tarns Lake. The journey offers approximately 4 hours of walking amidst breathtaking scenery. Afterwards, we make our way back to Shipton’s Camp.

Day 4

<b><strong>Kami Hut 4439 m (14,649 ft.)</strong></b>

Today we will hike up to Kami Hut, which serves as the starting point for the North Face climb. The usual duration for this hike is only 2 hours.

Day 5

Firmin Tower

First, start the day early, typically around 4 to 5 in the morning. Then, leave at 5:30 to head to the base of North Face, which typically takes between 45 minutes to an hour. We might need to use headlamps to climb the first few segments, which are rocky and frozen. Keep walking until you get to the beginning of the rock climbing portion, which consists of 10 ropes, each 50 meters long. Spend the night at Firmin Tower.

Day 6

Summit Batian 5199 m (17,257 ft.) to Shipton’s Camp

There are approximately three challenging sections, all of them quite brief, ranging from 5.8 to 5.9 in difficulty. Beyond this, there is easier terrain that leads to a few more sections, and eventually to the west ridge. From here, we continue on relatively easy but still exposed rock until reaching Shipton’s Notch, a prominent cut in the summit ridge. After that, there is another section to climb, followed by a mix of 4th and easy 5th class rock that leads to the Batian summit. Once we reach the summit, we will rappel down to the base and then walk to Shipton’s Camp for dinner and stay overnight.

Day 7

Meru Bandas 3000 m (9900 ft.)

We opt for the Chogoria Route as it is renowned for its breathtaking views of the peak. Our journey starts with a challenging ascent to Simba Col, followed by a descent to Meru Mount Kenya Bandas through the stunning Gorges Valley. As we make our way through the forest belt surrounding Mount Kenya, we may encounter Cape Buffalo, Bush Buck, Water Buck, and signs of other wildlife. The trek to the bandas will take approximately 7 hours.

Day 8

Nairobi

After enjoying your morning meal, take a leisurely stroll through the bamboo and native woodland to reach Bairunyi. There, you will reunite with your transportation for your journey back to Nairobi.

The cost for the whole 8 days Mount Kenya SE Route includes and excludes the following items