Vladislav Terzyul, a renowned Ukrainian alpinist celebrated
Vladislav Terzyul

Vladislav Terzyul, born on June 18, 1953, in Artyom, Primorsky Krai, Soviet Union, was a renowned Ukrainian alpinist celebrated for his extraordinary feats in high-altitude climbing. He is widely regarded as one of the world’s premier high-altitude climbers, having made significant ascents on some of the most challenging peaks on the planet.

In 1999, Ukrainian climbers Vladislav Terzyul, Volodomyr Gorbach, and Vasily successfully climbed the famous Makalu peak, raising the blue-and-yellow flag. Tragically, tragedy struck during their descent, leading to their deaths. In 2010, a Ukrainian National expedition led by Valentin Simonenko aimed to climb Makalu, the fifth world summit, using a new route along the South-West Face.

Terzyul’s most notable achievement is his purported ascent of all 14 of the eight-thousanders, a feat achieved by only a select few climbers in history. However, his claim to this accomplishment is subject to dispute due to his failure to reach the highest point on Shishapangma, stopping instead at Shishapangma Central. Despite this controversy, Terzyul’s mountaineering prowess remains undisputed among the alpine community.

Tragically, Terzyul met his untimely demise while descending from the summit of Makalu on May 17, 2004, at an altitude of approximately 8300 meters. His passing sent shockwaves through the climbing world, as he was revered for his exceptional skill and daring spirit.

Throughout his illustrious climbing career, Terzyul tackled numerous challenging peaks, leaving an indelible mark on the history of mountaineering. Here is a chronological list of some of his most notable ascents:

  1. 1993 – Kanchenjunga, east ridge, as part of an International Expedition.
  2. 1994 – K2, Abruzzi route, with the Ukrainian Expedition/Odessa Alpine Club.
  3. 1995 – Broad Peak Forepeak, west edge and north ridge, as part of an International Expedition.
  4. 1996 – Gasherbrum II, classic route, as part of an International Expedition.
  5. 1996 – Annapurna, northwest ridge, new route, with the Polish International Expedition.
  6. 1997 – Nanga Parbat, Diamir face, with the Ukrainian Expedition.
  7. 1999 – Everest, classic route from the north, as part of the Ukrainian National Expedition.
  8. 2000 – Shishapangma Central, classic route, with the Ukrainian National Expedition.
  9. 2000 – Cho Oyu, classic route, climbed solo.
  10. 2001 – Manaslu, southeast ridge, new route, with the Ukrainian National Expedition.
  11. 2002 – Lhotse, with the Odessa Alpclub expedition.
  12. 2002 – Dhaulagiri.
  13. 2003 – Gasherbrum I.
  14. 2004 – Makalu, west ridge, where he tragically lost his life during the descent.

Terzyul’s legacy as an intrepid alpinist and pioneer in high-altitude climbing continues to inspire generations of mountaineers around the world. His remarkable achievements and adventurous spirit serve as a testament to the boundless human capacity for exploration and perseverance in the face of adversity. Though he may no longer walk among us, his memory lives on in the annals of mountaineering history, forever immortalized as one of the greatest climbers of his generation.


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