University Peak: A Majestic Mountain in Alaska
university peak

University Peak, located in Alaska’s Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve stands as one of the prominent peaks in the state. Nestled within the vast wilderness of Alaska, this mountain offers a challenging ascent, breathtaking scenery, and an opportunity to experience the rugged beauty of the region.

There are thirteeners in the Sierra Nevada, and University Peak is one of them. The University of California provided the inspiration for its naming. It is situated on the Sierra crest between Mount Gould, which is located to the north, and Mount Bradley, which is located to the south. It is on the border of Tulare County and Inyo County where both counties meet. The John Muir Wilderness encompasses the east face of the mountain, while Kings Canyon National Park protects the mountain’s western face. The nearest trailhead to University Peak is Onion Valley. The least technical route that leads to the summit is an off-trail hike up the south slopes. It provides access to a wide variety of various routes, ranging from straightforward scrambles to technical rock climbs.

Key Features:

  1. Elevation: University Peak soars to an impressive height of 14,470 feet (4,397 meters). This elevation places it among the towering peaks of the Wrangell Mountains, which are part of the broader Saint Elias Mountains range.
  2. Location: Situated in the remote wilderness of southeastern Alaska, University Peak is part of the Wrangell Mountains. It is surrounded by a pristine landscape of glaciers, valleys, and other peaks, making it a haven for outdoor enthusiasts.

Activities and Attractions:

  1. Mountaineering: University Peak offers a challenging ascent for experienced mountaineers. Its steep and icy slopes, as well as its remote location, add to the allure of this mountain. Climbers are drawn to the technical skills required to conquer this formidable peak.
  2. Scenic Beauty: Even for those who do not attempt the summit, University Peak’s surroundings provide spectacular vistas. The Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is a paradise for landscape photography, with glaciers, alpine tundra, and pristine wilderness.
  3. Wildlife Viewing: The region around University Peak is rich in wildlife. Grizzly bears, Dall sheep, mountain goats, and a variety of bird species call this area home. Wildlife enthusiasts and photographers will find ample opportunities to observe these creatures in their natural habitat.
  4. Hiking and Backpacking: While the ascent of University Peak is reserved for experienced mountaineers, hikers and backpackers can explore the surrounding national park. There are numerous trails and routes that lead to alpine lakes, valleys, and meadows with abundant wildflowers.

How to Get There:

  • Access to University Peak typically begins with a flight to the nearby town of McCarthy, which serves as a gateway to the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. From McCarthy, adventurers can embark on a journey into the park to access the mountain.

University Peak Itinerary

University Peak, with its towering presence, icy slopes, and remote location, is a magnet for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts looking to explore the rugged beauty of Alaska. As part of the stunning Wrangell Mountains, it’s a significant feature in the state’s wilderness. Whether you’re aiming for the summit, embarking on a scenic hike, or simply savoring the untouched landscapes and wildlife of this region, University Peak embodies the untamed spirit of Alaska and offers an unforgettable adventure.

Climbing University Peak is a challenging and rewarding endeavor in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park in Alaska. Here’s a sample itinerary for a climbing expedition to University Peak, which is a remote and technical ascent:

Day 1: Arrival in McCarthy

  • Arrive in the small town of McCarthy, Alaska, which serves as the gateway to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.
  • Check in with the park rangers to obtain any necessary permits and get updated on current park conditions.
  • Arrange for transportation to the starting point of your climb.

Day 2: Start of the Hike

  • Begin the trek to the base of University Peak. The approach typically involves hiking through wilderness and potentially crossing rivers or glaciers.
  • Set up a base camp at a suitable location. Ensure that all necessary supplies, including tents, food, and technical climbing equipment, are in order.
  • Conduct a group briefing on the climb’s logistics, safety measures, and environmental considerations.
  • Rest and prepare for the climb ahead.

Day 3: Acclimatization and Skills Review

  • Spend the day at base camp acclimatizing to the higher altitude and conducting gear checks.
  • Review and practice technical climbing skills, especially if members of your team are less experienced.
  • Check the weather forecast for the upcoming days and plan accordingly.

Day 4: Move to High Camp

  • Begin the ascent to high camp. This involves navigating challenging terrain, including glaciers and steep slopes.
  • Arrive at the high camp and establish tents. Check and organize gear for the summit push.
  • Hydrate, eat, and rest in preparation for the summit day.

Day 5: Summit Day

  • An alpine start in the early hours to maximize the climbing window and avoid softening snow or poor visibility.
  • Ascend University Peak’s technical sections, including steep rock faces, snowfields, and ice.
  • Reach the summit and enjoy panoramic views of the Wrangell-St. Elias wilderness.
  • Descend safely to high camp, where you can rest and recover.

Day 6: Descent and Return

  • After breakfast, pack up high camp and begin the descent to the base camp.
  • Return to McCarthy, celebrating the successful climb.
  • Debrief with your climbing team and the park rangers regarding your expedition.
  • Reflect on the adventure and the stunning surroundings of the national park.

Please be aware that climbing University Peak is a challenging and potentially dangerous endeavor, and it should only be attempted by experienced mountaineers with appropriate technical skills and equipment. Additionally, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park is a remote and wilderness area, so climbers should be well-prepared for self-sufficiency and environmental responsibility. This is a general itinerary, and actual details may vary based on weather, route choice, and the experience level of your climbing team. Always prioritize safety and be prepared for the unpredictable conditions of the Alaskan wilderness.

University Peak vs Uhuru Peak Comparison

University Peak and Uhuru Peak are two vastly different mountain summits, each with its unique characteristics and challenges. Let’s compare these two peaks in various aspects:

University Peak:


  • University Peak is situated in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park in Alaska, United States.
  • It’s part of the Wrangell Mountains, which is known for its remote and rugged terrain.

Climbing Difficulty:

  • Climbing University Peak is considered highly technical and challenging.
  • The ascent typically involves navigating glaciers, rock faces, and steep terrain, often requiring advanced mountaineering skills and equipment.


  • The climb to University Peak takes place in the pristine wilderness of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.
  • The area is characterized by its remote and untouched natural beauty, with abundant wildlife and stunning landscapes.


  • University Peak is a destination for experienced mountaineers seeking a technical and demanding climb in one of the most remote and wild areas of Alaska.
  • Climbing University Peak offers a sense of adventure, exploration, and accomplishment in a pristine and untouched environment.

Uhuru Peak:


  • Uhuru Peak is the highest point on Mount Kilimanjaro, located in Tanzania, East Africa.
  • Mount Kilimanjaro is Africa’s tallest mountain and a famous international destination.

Climbing Difficulty:

  • Climbing Uhuru Peak is less technical compared to University Peak.
  • While it involves high-altitude trekking, it does not require advanced mountaineering skills, and climbers primarily hike through various terrains.


  • Mount Kilimanjaro offers a diverse ecological experience, from tropical rainforests to alpine deserts and glaciers.
  • The mountain’s setting in Tanzania provides unique cultural and natural experiences.


  • Climbing Uhuru Peak is a significant goal for many people due to its inclusion in the Seven Summits and its status as the highest point in Africa.
  • It offers a combination of adventure, cultural immersion, and the opportunity to explore diverse ecosystems.

University Peak and Uhuru Peak cater to different types of climbers and adventurers. University Peak is a technical and demanding climb in the remote Alaskan wilderness, appealing to experienced mountaineers seeking a challenging ascent. In contrast, Uhuru Peak on Mount Kilimanjaro offers a high-altitude trek that is accessible to a wider range of adventurers and provides a unique opportunity to explore diverse ecosystems and experience the cultural significance of Tanzania. The choice between these peaks depends on your skills, preferences, and the type of adventure you seek.


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